“Let’s get back to the basics.” No matter whether you’re in business, sports or any other endeavor, you’ve probably heard that suggested from time to time. And the reasons are simple: first, the basics are what we build on as we go farther and learn more no matter what our pursuit, and second, later steps depend on earlier steps having been taken, properly and in order. The same holds true when setting hunting properties up with food plots.
There are four basic steps that should be followed if we are to get the best possible results from our food plot efforts. Here are those four steps, which we set out in Part 1 of this article. If you missed Part 1 or would like to review it, it’s available at http://www.whitetailinstitute.com/ under the Whitetail News link.
We covered steps (1) and (2) in Part 1 of this article. Now let’s build on those first two steps.
We covered steps (1) and (2) in Part 1 of this article. Now let’s build on those first two steps.
STEP 3: CORRECTLY PREPARE EACH SITE FOR PLANTING
For optimum results, all Whitetail Institute forage blends should be planted in a seedbed which has been prepared with the following characteristics:
1. Soil pH should be 6.5 to 7.5: Some Whitetail Institute forage products will tolerate soil pH lower than 6.5. One example is Imperial Whitetail Extreme, which will tolerate soil pH as low as 5.4. Two others are Imperial No-Plow and Secret Spot, which will tolerate being planted with very little seedbed preparation.
However, note that I said “tolerate” — that means that these products will perform well in lower pH soils, but if you want any Imperial Whitetail Institute forage to perform optimally, soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5.
The only way to be absolutely sure that the soil pH of your seedbed is within this optimum range by the time you’re ready to plant is to perform a laboratory soil test, and then disk or till any lime recommended in your soil test report thoroughly into the seedbed several months in advance of planting if possible. Be sure you use a soil test kit that sends your soil sample off to a qualified soil testing laboratory; and when you prepare the sample to send, be sure to tell the lab what forage you’ll be planting. That way the lab can precisely tailor its recommendations. High quality soil test kits are available from the Whitetail Institute, county agents, agricultural universities and most farm supply stores. And remember — proper soil pH is the most important factor you can control in assuring a successful planting. (For more information on why soil pH is so critical, see the following on-line article: www.whitetailinstitute.com/info/news/nov05/12.html)
2. Create seedbed free of vegetation. The main reason you should try to get your seedbed as clean of existing vegetation as possible is so that your forage plants will have as much root space as they need for optimum growth. If you are not able to rid the site of all existing vegetation, that won’t be a “deal killer,” but the more you can remove, the better the forage should perform.
3. Seedbed smoothness and firmness: Seedbed firmness and smoothness are not as critical with the Institute’s large-seed blends (Imperial Whitetail PowerPlant and Pure Attraction). Before planting these products, the seedbed should be disked or tilled; once that’s done, there is no need to smooth or firm the seedbed further before seeding. Seedbed smoothness and firmness are much more important when preparing to plant any Imperial forage product other than PowerPlant or Pure Attraction. All other Imperial forages are small-seed blends, and as such they should be planted on or very near the surface of the soil (no deeper than 1/4-inch). Once the seedbed has been disked or tilled, then the seedbed should be (A) smoothed so that it is free of all cracks, and (B) firmed to the point that your boot tracks sink down no more than one-half to one inch when you walk out into the plot. There are two ways to smooth and firm a seedbed after disking or tilling: with a weighted drag-type implement, or with a cultipacker (a roller). As I’ll explain below, which one you use to smooth and firm the seedbed is critical to what — if anything — you should do after putting your seed out.
Once your seedbed has been limed and disked, add fertilizer as called for in your soil test report. If no soil test is available, then add the amount and blend of fertilizer recommended in the Institute’s planting instructions for the product. Add your fertilizer just before you plant so that the nitrogen in the fertilizer will be at full strength. Once the seedbed has been fertilized and lightly disked in, you’ll need to smooth and firm the seedbed before you put the seed out. How firm and smooth the seedbed should be depends on what Imperial forage product you’re planting. The biggest difference concerns seed size.
Large-Seed Blends: As I mentioned in Step 3 above, two Imperial forage products, PowerPlant and Pure Attraction, are large-seed blends. These products contain both small and large seeds and are best planted with a broadcast spreader, and then lightly covered with a drag or light harrow so that they are no deeper than one half to one inch under loose soil.
Small-Seed Blends: As I also mentioned, all other Imperial Forage products are small-seed blends. These should be left at or very near the surface of the soil when planted.
If you used a weighted drag to smooth and firm the seedbed before seeding, your seedbed should be adequately smooth and free of cracks. Just broadcast the seed, and do nothing further after you put the seed out. Do not drag the field again after seeding. Cultipack the plot after seeding only if you used a cultipacker to smooth and firm the seedbed prior to putting the seed out. That will help seat the seed into the surface of the firmed seedbed. Be sure that you cultipack the seedbed both before and after seeding with small seeds, though. If you only cultipack after, the seed can be pushed too deep into the soft soil. However, if you used a weighted drag-type implement to smooth and firm the seedbed, the soil will still be loose enough for the seed to naturally settle right where it falls, so do nothing further once you put the seed out. Never drag over small seeds.
Final matters: Some (but not all) Imperial forage blends benefit from an additional fertilization about 30-45 days after planting with a high-nitrogen fertilizer such as 22-0-0, 24-0-0 or 46-0-0. These include the Institute’s “Chic” Magnet and Extreme perennials as well as all Imperial annual forage products. If possible, try not to skip this step because it can really boost forage growth with these products. Also, consider putting small exclusion cages over part of your food plots so that you can monitor deer usage.
The planting instructions for Whitetail Institute forage blends are as easy to find as they are easy to do – they’re right there on the back of each product bag and also on our website, http://www.whitetailinstitute.com/. And as always, if you have any questions, the Institute’s consultants are only a phone call away at (800) 688-3030.
