I saw what would eventually be the first land I owned in early
April. Nestled on the side of a mountain in western Pennsylvania, there was still
a trace of snow in the woods from a late arctic blast. The area was about as
barren as it would be during the year, yet I saw the potential.
My future house sat about
75 yards from an old log landing, which was used when the property was timbered
15 years earlier. I’ll be honest, it looked rough. The ragged surface from the
dozers left little to no topsoil. Rocks the size of quarters to tires speckled
the opening. A mass section of mixed briars was about the only thing growing,
aside from a couple of trees. But there was potential. It helped that as I turned
to go back to the house, some deer jumped out of the brush. Sold. As much as I
would have liked to jump into planting plots, I prioritized moving in, and
working on the house and career. But as spring led into summer, the dreams of
potential food plots grew into well planned strategies. However, planting a
woodland food plot is not that easy. From shading issues to poor soil, the task
has many challenges. You can overcome them, but you’d better come ready to roll
up your sleeves, as hard work will germinate success.
Site Selection
Food plot site selection
can be one of the most critical steps. It’s difficult to ignore thoughts of a
great hunting spot that might turn into a honey hole with the addition of a
food plot, but it’s not that easy. Site
selection in woodland food plots might be the most limiting factor. Let’s start
with the most obvious: area. The area in which you plant a woodland food plot
must be open or have the potential to open. Much of that revolves around your
equipment. My log-landing spot provided an open yet overgrown opportunity. But
many folks won’t have that. In such cases, break out the chainsaw, and get to
work. You don’t have to cut every tree, as an oak or two might be great for
acorn production. Just consider the ability of sunlight to reach the ground. That’s
key to plot growth. In addition to the area, the soil is likely the next
limiting factor. From extreme sand or clay consistency to rocky areas or a lack
of topsoil, many soil issues are not fixable. If the soil is acidic or lacks
nutrients, you can manipulate it through lime and fertilizer. What you can’t
change (at least not easily) is lack of topsoil or rockladen areas. But in some
cases, especially wooded food plots, you must work with what you have. My log
landing lacked topsoil and was littered with rocks. To create a successful food
plot, seedbed preparation would be critical.
Seedbed
Preparation
I’ll admit, until that point in my
food plot experience, I had been lucky, planting on good soil and having
equipment at my fingertips. I probably should have worked on the woodland plot
for a couple of years, but because I was impatient, I planned to complete it in
a few weekends. At any new food plot site, one of the first tasks is to clear
vegetation and, potentially, trees. For me, it was a nasty thicket of briars.
As a biologist, I almost hated myself for doing that, as I know it was likely good
bedding cover and winter food. However, it was also the best (and maybe only)
place for a plot on the property. If you’re dealing with brush and leafy
vegetation, it’s not too bad. I went after it with a weed eater and glyphosate.
I sprayed glyphosate liberally, and after seven to 10 days, went in and cut
down as much as I could. That obviously created a lot of vegetation on the
ground, which will block sunlight to a point. To get a cleaner seedbed, I used
a prescribed fire. Though many are fearful of using fire — and obviously, be
careful — it can be one of the greatest tools for food plotters preparing a seedbed.
Successful burns have many factors, especially during a hot and humid summer.
Wait for dry — but not too dry — conditions, a steady yet not overly strong
wind and proper assistance to control the fire. When run correctly, all organic
matter is broken down into a form that’s much easier to incorporate into the
soil. Because my log landing lacked topsoil, I need every bit I could get. Though
burning improved the situation, I still had to work the soil. With so much
rock, a disc or tiller would be ineffective or bring more rock to the surface.
And I didn’t have a tractor, which put a damper on that. For many woodland food
plots, equipment access is extremely limited. However, many folks can get a
four-wheeler or UTV into tight areas. I armed mine with a steel harrow drag. I
probably looked like a NASCAR driver running circles, but with that compacted,
rocky ground, I didn’t have much success. After hours of constant dragging, I
was still not happy with the result. Though way better than at the beginning, I
wasn’t seeing the smooth, broken soil to which I was accustomed. But you work
with what you are given. After three weekends, it was finally time to put seed
in the ground.
Species
Selection and Planting
It’s difficult to believe I was
finally ready to plant. But all that work built up to anxiety and fear of
failure. What if nothing grew? I knew the soil was poor, and there was only so
much I could do. Choosing the right food plot species was critical. I was not
sure if I’d be planting the plot every year or just maintaining it, so I wanted
a perennial and an annual. My go-to perennial in almost every food plot in any
soil condition is Imperial Whitetail Clover. It’s by far one of the hardiest
food plot varieties I’ve used, and it provides a great source of nutrition to
deer almost year-round. However, a straight perennial plot has some flaws, so I
always make sure to add some fast-growing annuals. On the new property, that
was mainly because I had no idea how many deer would use the plot. Though
small, the property joined almost 200,000 acres of contiguous mountain
woodlands. The area had no agriculture, few-to-no-food plots and, at best, a
neighbor’s garden other than natural foods. Further, I didn’t know the
germination success because of soil conditions. To pump up the biomass volume,
I mixed in some Whitetail Institute Winter-Greens. That tonnage producer would
grow faster than the Imperial Whitetail Clover and almost act as a cover crop.
As deer began to hit the Winter-Greens, the clover could establish. That assured
that come spring, there would be a great clover plot standing to help build
deer health coming out of winter. I took a soil sample, and I added the
appropriate amount of lime and I used a standard Triple 19 fertilizer. With
small seed, I drove over the plot with the ATV but didn’t drag it in. Planting
was planned to coincide with rain, and soon after, a soaking rain started the
germination process. The anticipation of success was killing me. In fewer than
four days, I saw the first signs of germination. The plot never looked back.
The
Result
In September, after being paired with
great weather, the plot soared. Excitement grew as deer began to visit the
woodland food plot consistently. With October and November and the best hunting
ahead, anticipation was high for the food plot to perform. Just before the Pennsylvania
gun season, the attraction of the Winter-Greens exploded and deer were
everywhere. By the beginning of February, the plot remained with some turnips
bulbs and clover, and, with spring not far off, the Imperial Whitetail Clover
would take off in the warm spring growing season. Though not nearly as easy,
that plot might have been my most satisfying. Maybe it was because it was on my
land, but taking it from a raw, unfavorable piece of ground to a successful
woodland food plot was exciting. Now, as I go into my second year, the only
question is where else I should plant on this mountain.
